Aminullah Baig, a veteran mountaineer, has set a new record of scaling all 8,000-meter high peaks in Pakistan by making it to the summit of the 8047-meter-high Broad Peak in the Karakoram Ranges on Thursday.
Amin, who hails from Shimshal, known as the ‘valley of mountaineers’, has earlier scaled K2 (8,611m), the second highest mountain peak in the world, Nanga Parabt (8,126m), Gasherbrum-I (8,086m) and Gasherbrum-II (8,035m).
Broad Peak has three separate summits: main (8,047m), central (8,016m) and north (7,550m).
The first ascent of the main summit was made in 1957 by an Austrian expedition team consisting of four climbers. Using many of the fixed lines set up by the failed German expedition of 1954, all the four made it to the summit in alpine style without using oxygen aid or high altitude porters.
Broad Peak middle was climbed by another five-member Polish team — Marek Kesicki, Bohdan Nowaczyk, Kazimierz Glazek, Janusz Kulis and Andrzej Sikorski – on 28th of July 1975. Kesicki, Nowaczyk and Sikorski died during the descent.From the first ascent in 1957 till now, Broad Peak has been climbed by over 300 times and had claimed over 20 lives. Only five people have climbed Broad Peak twice.There have been several winter expeditions to Broad Peak since 1987-88 when Andrzej Zawada, a Polish climber, considered a pioneer of winter climbing, led the first international winter expedition to K2 with climbers from Poland, Canada, and Great Britain. When they failed to scale K2, the team members Aleksander Lwow and Maciej Berbeka attempted Broad Peak and they only reached the Fore Peak. None of the five 8,000m peaks in Pakistan has been climbed in the winter thus far.
The new route up the south-west face was climbed by Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov in Alpine style in July 2005. Valery Babanov and his partner Victor Afanasiev climbed Broad Peak central pillar up to the west face in alpine style in 2008.